weekend wanders

Just over a month into my time in Addis and I'm definitely starting to feel settled. Time is no longer absorbed with house hunting and other logistical issues and I'm slowly getting the opportunity to explore this incredible city.

Friday started with a night of Ethiojazz at one Addis' oldest hotels (established in 1907 to be exact). Addis had a booming jazz scene in the 1960s but it disappeared under the oppressive Derg regime. Today, the jazz scene is slowly starting to rebuild itself and it was a great experience to sit amongst the mainly Ethiopian audience and listen to Ethiopia's unique take on jazz

Saturday was a visit to Mercato - reputably Africa's largest market. All visitors to Addis are warned against the dangers of Mercato and the high probability you will be pick-pocketed and/or have your bag snatched.So with my camera at home and small bits of money dispersed amongst different zippered pockets and under clothes I felt prepared. And then was pleasantly surprised at what a non-stressful experience it turned out to be. Maybe it was because our small group was being guided by four Ethiopian men, but compared to some of the markets I'd experienced in North Africa, the most threatening part of Mercato was trying to not get lost among the endless winding streets. I left with spinach, popcorn, curry spices and a mirror - a very successful shopping trip.

Saturday evening I had a chance to meet two other CIDA interns who have recently arrived in Addis. It turns out they live really close to our house and their office is even closer. Seeing as how we live a little outside the main expat neighbourhoods it's exciting to have some new friends be so close by. And of course our little meet up had to happen at the Oh Canada restaurant.

Sunday followed with what has now become my typical routine of a visit to the Japanese market (there is actually nothing Japanese about the market except for the fact that it's near the bole Japan road) to stock up on fresh produce for the week and a fresh squeezed juice. It's apparently strawberry season so this week it was strawberry, mango and pineapple - or 'espritz' (meaning mixed) as they call it in amharic (which is also coincidentally the first word I learned :) ). Delicious.

All in all, a pretty great weekend.

Photo Credit: Michelle Ferng

Photo Credit: Michelle Ferng

Photo Credit: Michelle Ferng

Happy 95th Madiba!

Today is Nelson Mandela's Birthday. He turns 95 this year, and as a helpful UN email reminded me this morning, it is also Nelson Mandela day in recognition of his contributions to democracy, racial justice, reconciliation and his service to humanity. 

In recognition of this day, the Mandela Foundation calls on all individuals around the world to donate 67 minutes of time to change the world for the better. One minute of public service for every year Mandela estimates he devoted to service to humanity. For all the good Mandela -along with many other inspiring people- was able to bring to his country, continent and the rest of the world - a little over an hour doesn't seem like too much to ask.

As today went  by my thoughts often returned to Mandela and the recent time I spent in a tiny country surrounded by South Africa. Lesotho's history is inextricable linked with South Africa and apartheid. It was a safe-haven for many black South Africans during those year, a place to live, access education, and organise against the oppression occurring outside its porous borders. But is also represented exactly what the apartheid government thought was the best solution - an all black enclave separated from other race communities. It's no wonder many South Africans I spoke with had mixed emotions about the time they spent in refuge in this little mountain kingdom.

Now in Ethiopia, a country so proud of having never been colonised, Mandela's life work does not feel any less significant. In this beating hub of Addis where African leaders come from all over to make change happen, the strength in the diversity that is found across this incredible continent cannot be ignored. 

And so today on his birthday, I am wishing Mandela the best and good health as he recovers in hospital. But I also know that his legacy and strength is one that will not fade away when the great man leaves this earth. There are far too many people that have already picked up his torch.

a fasting feast

While I was still in Lesotho I would joke with friends that the next overseas posting I would take would have to be somewhere with great (re: spicy and vegetarian-friendly) local food and coffee. I feel like Ethiopia is more than adequate in meeting these needs. 

Strong espresso coffee is a part of everyday life and can be found in every restaurant, Starbucks-like coffee chain, hole the wall cafe and most street corners. 

Vegetarianism is easily explained with the simple term 'fasting' thanks to the practices of Orthodox Christians in the country. Every Wedneday and Friday, you are pretty much guaranteed to be able to find a veggie option and I could not be happier.

Our German neighbours have been telling us for weeks now about this great place they go to for lunch everyday while they are working at the Addis Ababa University. As there is currently a 12 day fasting period (ie. every day is vegetarian day) we thought we would head out there this Saturday to experience the place they charmingly call the 'Hobbit House' for ourselves.

Our feast of injera and vegetable stews, plates of pasta, traditional coffee (plus some soup starters and cold drinks that didn't make the photographs) set us back a whole $2 each. It was beyond delicious and I cannot wait to find a chance to go back.

Oh Canada!

I meant to get this posted in time for Canada Day but I'm still struggling to get decent internet access, so here it is, just a few days late :)

Canada and Ethiopia have a very close relationship - how else can you explain Ethiopian Airlines' direct flight between Toronto and Addis? Over the years many Ethiopians have immigrated to Canada and the country is one of CIDA's key priorities. But while there are a number of Canadian partnerships and NGOs operating in the country, I have yet to meet many Canadians during my ventures into Addis' expat community.




So with Canada Day weekend upon us, myself and a few of the other CIDA interns I have connected with in the city, headed out to celebrate. We could think of no better place to go than the "Oh Canada Cafe and Restaurant"

Born and raised in Canada, the owner is one of the many members of the diaspora who has decided to move to Ethiopia and set up shop. The country has ambitious goals to be considered middle-income by 2025 and has identified the Ethiopian diaspora as a key force that will drive it's economic growth and development.

The burgers are named after hockey teams, the pizzas after Canadian musicians (none of us could quite understand why Avril Lavigne was the Margherita) and the menu is interspersed with large glossy photos of the parliament buildings and Canada's olympic gold medal hockey team. It's pretty cheesy but  while it's often possible to find Irish pubs or American burger and steak houses in capital cities all over the world, it's pretty rare to find a Canadian one, so we decided to embrace it.

Amidst the German bakeries and Italian pizzerias, it's nice to know Canada has its own little place in this crazy international city of Addis Ababa.